Opinion

Ilford’s farming success but no mill to make flour

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Farming has always been vital, and the demand for fresh, affordable food is nothing new, though it was often produced through the hard labour of poorly paid workers.

Ilford was once surrounded by productive farms.

Clements, the largest at 430 acres, stretched along the east side of Barking Lane (later renamed Ilford Lane) and across the south side of the High Road almost as far as Seven Kings.

In 1768, Arthur Young noted that the Red Lion publican on Ilford Hill had potatoes worth £9 - a handsome profit in today’s terms for a crop not yet lifted.

Along the High Road in Victorian times stood the Cauliflower pub, the name indicating just how important the crop was locally.

Throughout the 19th century, Essex was one of the most successful mixed arable counties, producing wheat, barley, and oats in abundance.

'Ye Cherry Pey' tablet now cemented into the wall of The George and Dragon (Image: Jef Page)

Writing in 1813, Young, then secretary to the Board of Agriculture, said the potato was king, with Ilford noted for its quality.

The work, however, was back-breaking.

Labourers walked bent double or carried heavy sacks of seed potatoes, earning just 7–8 shillings an acre, while hand-hoeing paid an even poorer 4 shillings an acre.

Around 50 farms operated in and around Ilford, including smaller holdings such as Highlands Farm (88 acres) near The Drive.

Their proximity to London was a major advantage, allowing crops to be taken easily to Covent Garden Market.

Alborough Hatch Farm regularly sent wagonloads to Borough Market in Southwark.

Jeff Page queries the lack of one important farming building in Ilford (Image: Jef Page)

Watercress beds lined the River Roding, while Wanstead was known for its summer cherry orchards, commemorated by the 1752 ‘Ye Cherry Pey’ tablet - "that cost ½ a guinea" - still set into the wall of the George and Dragon.

Ploughing matches drew large crowds.

In October 1909, the Ilford Farmers’ Association staged an event featuring 69 teams - 60 from Ilford - including three-horse teams, all competing to produce the straightest furrows.

Heavy overnight rain made conditions difficult, but the spectacle still attracted families and friends.

Eric Coe, of Shackman’s Farm, won his class with a two-horse team, earning £2 along with local prestige, while his family also took a prize for the best cauliflowers.

Ernest Perkins, of Aldborough Hatch, was named best amateur cottage gardener, and George Clark, of Gads Hill Cottages in Barkingside, grew the finest vegetables.

Yet one question remains: why did Ilford have no windmill to grind corn into flour?

Nearby Barking had one, and Chadwell Heath had three - Betty, Jack, and Jill - operated by Archer Moss and his family.

These were not just charming names, but essential working mills.

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