Stunning Staffa and magical Mull

14 November 2005

SEALS slashed across our wake and screeching seabirds wheeled overhead as we chopped through the North Atlantic.

Cormorants swooped low across the waves and darkening skies deepened out over the far horizon as colour drained fast from landlubbers' faces.

"I've been sailing these waters for over 50 years - this is one of the better days," grinned rock-hard skipper David Kilpatrick as he sent the Iolaire plunging into the whitetops.

It wasn't The Perfect Storm but the veteran fisherman was there with a friendly word, a firm shake of the hand and a pat on the back for jelly-legged day-sailors.

Then it was back to the wheelhouse as David - who knows this land inside out - nosed us up to the dramatic island of Staffa, a shining jewel off Scotland's wild and wonderful west coast.

The 60-minute trip out from historic Iona was exciting and exhilarating; it blew away the cobwebs and injected new life into a Sassenach's veins.

You could almost hear the strains of Fingal's Cave soaring above the screaming, moaning wind.

Composer Felix Mendelssohn was inspired to write the classic Hebrides Overture as he stood inside the cave on a visit to Staffa in 1829.

The German genius was overwhelmed by the roar of the sea crashing into the huge basalt columns dating back a staggering 60 million years.

Local legend has it that Fingal was a Gaelic giant who fell out with an ogre from Ulster. The Irish giant built a land link between Northern Ireland and Scotland to fight his massive rival.

That was destroyed in the terrible battle and only two ends of the land bridge remained - one at Staffa and the other at the Giant's Causeway in Antrim.

Giants were nowhere to be seen the day we slipped and slid on to rocks made shiny and treacherous by years of battering.

But Fingal's Cave was as awesome as the time it was sculpted by the savage forces of nature - just as the last dinosaurs were bidding earth a final dramatic farewell.

Famous botanist Joseph Banks wrote in 1772: "Compared to this what are the cathedrals or palaces built by men!

"Mere models or playthings, imitations as his works will always be when compared to those of nature."

Queen Victoria, Jules Verne and Robert Louis Stevenson took him at his word and were all bewitched in the 1800s by the magical lump of rock created by molten lava deep in pre-history.

Today Staffa is as breathtaking and powerful as ever - it seems to generate enough wind and wave energy to light a city the size of Glasgow!

The food-rich waters surrounding it teem with life - grey seals, dolphins and porpoises love to ride the waves.

Minke and pilot whales feast in the crystal-clear seas while puffins, kittiwakes, shags and gulls nest all over the enchanting island.

"We've already made over 300 trips out to Staffa this summer," said David Kilpatrick.

"People just love its raw, wild beauty - it's like nowhere else on earth. It truly is unique and I never get tired of it, even after 50 years!

"I see Staffa in a different light every single day depending on the sun, the skies and the winds. It's an awe-inspiring place."

We headed out to Staffa from the ancient Christian island of Iona. Home now to 100 or so rugged souls - there's probably more people in your street - it's steeped in blood and glory.

Iona Abbey, founded by St Columba in AD563, is the legendary burial place of a host of Scottish kings and famous Scotsmen - including Macbeth and former Labour leader John Smith.

It is a potent symbol of worship throughout the Christian world, attracting pilgrims from thousands of miles away.

Iona could well be on a different planet but you can be there within hours from anywhere in the UK.

Dazzling

We flew up to Glasgow in less than 60 minutes before escaping into Scotland's very own Wild West. The dazzling landscape of Argyll flashed by and hit and run showers threw up rainbow after rainbow across the moody skies.

We stopped in the idyllic conservation village of Luss on the shores of Loch Lomond and wolfed down steaming broth at the smiling Coach House coffee shop. An exquisite banoffee-coffee was the icing on the cake.

Less than an hour to the north west is impressive Inverary Castle.

The fairytale castle has been home to the Dukes of Argyll, heads of the Clan Campbell, since the 15th century.

A fascinating tour of the Armoury Hall swirls through 600 years of Scottish warfare and bloodshed in the hills and glens. But it's not all death and destruction - 1300 pieces of Scottish, English and French furniture and countless works of art form a mesmerising collection.

Enough culture for one day, we drove to the majestic Ardanaiseig Hotel hard by the banks of the aptly-named Loch Awe. A four-poster bed in a room to die for conjured up a sweeping panorama across the icy blue water as the sun set on a land no artist could paint.

The following day we took a picturesque drive up to the popular port of Oban - and a visit to Oban Chocolate Factory.

The award-winning centre of sweetness and light produces all sorts of amazing tastes from marmite to chilli chocs as well as amaretto cream, pear William and marzipan and walnut.

Munch till your heart's content as you watch the delicacies being made in the factory downstairs at the shop.

The ferry out to the haunting Isle of Mull takes 45 minutes. We landed at Craignure and a brisk walk later were touring the stunning gardens at Torosay Castle.

They boast exotic plants, shrubs and trees from all over the planet while the castle is suitably imposing and the welcome genuine and totally down to earth.

We returned to Craignure the easy way on the Isle of Mull Railway, Scotland's only island narrow gauge railway.

Just the beat of a tail feather away, Wings over Mull conservation centre has over 40 owls, hawks, kites, falcons, vultures and eagles - and is a raptor-lover's paradise.

Sue and Richard Dewar established the sanctuary five years ago and run a whole range of wildlife rescue and rehabilitation schemes as well as staging breathtaking flying displays.

We stayed at the Western Isles Hotel in picture postcard Tobermory, made famous by the children's TV programme Balamory.

Never mind the kids, there's more than enough in this vibrant, colourful 18th century fishing port to entertain mums and dads as well with shops, hotels, restaurants and arts and crafts all jostling each other.

I peered out over the Sound of Mull from my room. Iona and Staffa lay ahead, glittering highlights of a romance-soaked, four-day Gaelic cameo which will linger long in the memory.

For more information on Scotland, call Visit Scotland on 0845 2255121 or log on to www.visitscotland.com